Making the case for pocket watches
27 April 2023 These days, to be a ‘watch collector’ is to collect wristwatches. However, it was not ever thus.
A gold key-wind triple-case pocket watch with a full plate fusee verge movement by Allen Walker and a repoussé and shagreen decoration case with hallmarks for London 1785. Estimate £2500-3500 at Bonhams Watches and Wristwatches sale in Knightsbridge.
Until the late 20th century most ‘watch collectors’ bought pocket watches, a much older type of portable timekeeper that, developed across several centuries, tell a remarkable story of horological innovation, societal change, craftsmanship and fashion
Some exceptional pocket watches come for sale at Bonhams Watches and Wristwatches sale in Knightsbridge on May 11, many of them with a provenance to the collection of TP Camerer Cuss.
He was the author of several books on the subject including The Country Life Book of Watches (1967) and The Camerer Cuss Book of Antique Watches (1976) in which some of the watches were pictured.
Bonhams' specialist Penelope Andrews says: “It’s a privilege to offer such a significant collection of early pocket watches. The watches are truly works of art; they transcend from being simply a watch into exceptional decorative pieces.”
A small selection appears below.
This gold key-wind pair-case pocket watch by royal clockmaker Justin Vulliamy dates from c.1778-80. The blue, red and white enamelled coronet and the cypher PW suggest it was made for George IV when he was Prince of Wales. Engraved on the movement are the letters 'uon', Vulliamy’s cryptic numbering code which may translate to number 347.
As George Augustus Frederick was born in 1762, the watch would have been made for him at some point in his late teens. By the age of 18 his lifestyle and extravagant living had already become an embarrassment to his family. He would give watches like this away to settle gambling debts. Estimate £12,000-15,000.
This silver key-wind pair-case ‘Puritan’ pocket watch is an early design fashionable between 1630-60. The silver dial is covered by a rock crystal ‘glass’ that is held in place by tags around the underside of the bezel. The movement carries the name John Snow me Fecit – perhaps for a Salisbury maker of that name. It is offered with an estimate of £12,000-15,000.
This fine and rare gold, and ruby set key wind triple case pocket watch with a shagreen outer case was made by Joseph Martineau. The height of luxury when it was made c.1760, it is set with 441 rubies forming a radiating circle to the back and bezel of the middle case and further decoration to the white enamel dial. Estimate £20,000-30,000.
The classic Victorian or Edwardian gold hunter or half hunter pocket watch is often worth only its weight in gold these days. For a watch to be collectable it needs either a ‘complication’ or the name of an esteemed maker. This 18ct keyless wind half hunter is by Charles Frodsham, London and has hallmarks for 1897. Accompanied by a fitted Charles Frodsham case, it is estimated at £800-1200.
Leading the sale is a fine and rare 18ct gold and gilt metal key-wind quarter-repeating pair-case pocket watch by ‘father of English clockmaking’ Thomas Tompion. Made c. 1709, it is one of the earliest surviving watches with jewelled bearings and diamond end stones for the balance, and also one of just three watches Tompion made for female clients. The watch, with the cypher MM below the coronet on the outer case, was made for Mary, Duchess of Montagu (1689-1751), probably as a 21st birthday gift. It entered the Camerer Cuss collection in 1953. Estimate £20,000-30,000.