He went to work, designing what would become known as the vanity case, a must-have for any well-dressed woman on the go. Today, the Art Deco-era vanity cases are highly sought by contemporary collectors, as Tajan (23% buyer’s premium) demonstrated with three exceptional examples offered in Paris on December 5.
The top lot of this Collecting Beauty sale was a 1925 Van Cleef & Arpels enamelled lapis lazuli, rose cut diamond, platinum and 18ct yellow gold vanity case. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels Paris and numbered 27797 and 7050, the case carried a French assay mark and the Strauss, Allard & Meyer maker’s mark. Estimated at €25,000-30,000, it hammered for €76,000 (£65,360).
A 1927 Cartier enamel ruby, lapis lazuli and 18ct gold vanity case performed similarly, selling for €67,000 (£57,620). The case was signed Cartier Londres New York and was numbered 8787 and 6144.
Langlois design
Headquartered in Paris, Alfred Langlois was an independent maker of vanity and cigarette cases, often for Van Cleef & Arpels. He signed an exclusivity deal in 1932 and eventually took over the firm.
Sold for €45,000 (£38,700) was a 1925 gem set and enamel vanity case carrying Langlois’ mark in the Japonism taste.
Made in platinum and 18ct yellow gold set with panels of lapis-lazuli, the mother of pearl marquetry ‘Branche Fleurie’ decoration was strongly reminiscent of hashira-e woodblock prints.